Water, Light, Birds and Abalone: A Bay-to-Sea Journey
At last the sun has freed itself from the damp white carpet of summer fog in the San Francisco Bay. The city landscape in the distant horizon emerges onto the shimmering liquid horizon before me. The end of summer’s light glistens on my face, while I wait in a frenzy of sea birds on the houseboat for my friend’s arrival. A glorious forecast of warm clear skies calls for a bay-to-sea adventure.
I am home in Sausalito, ready to drive up the coast, scope the surf, and free dive for an abalone near a remote cliff side camp where friends are gathered for the weekend. As I watch from my dock and wait, the sounds of the Bay reel me in to pure tranquility.
The silence, which was only the whisper of clinking sailboat masts and lapping water from a buzzing dingy in the distance, transforms into a subtle rhythm of sea birds in the Bay. The deep long pulse of fog horns from retreating morning mist sets the tone of the chorus, while a canon from Angel Island echoes in my ribs. Elegant white terns with black mohawks and orange beaks, flutter side by side, up and down, grating and squeaking quick high notes while they eagerly track the anchovies. Chiming in are quarreling seagulls nearby on rooftops, cackling loudly and waking the neighbors. As the gulls calm down, sleek black cormorants can be heard sifting the glassy waters in unity like a gentle mountain stream passing by. The chorus is interrupted again, this time, by a loud gurgled squawk of a majestic Great Blue Heron as it lands on my dock post, folding its long neck into a graceful silhouette.
My gaze is still fixed onto the horizon, and I smile with joy and delight. I am literally breathing in the sounds of nature’s bliss in my backyard. Filling with a swell of momentum, I run out to the dock and jump on my paddleboard to take in a few long strokes on flat water, while greeting friends on kayaks. My thoughts drift from the birds and beauty of the Bay to the anticipation of the Pacific coast. Before long I see my friend waving his arms, signaling me. It’s time to head to the sea!
With no time frame, we pack the Element with enough kit to survive a few days on the road. Leaving the burbs by the Bay behind, there is nothing but nature and rugged coast ahead. Past Jenner, the road winds along the coast, up and down the foothills of the Coastal Range. On an Indian summer day, this stretch of coast in NorCal is unbeatable.
Weaving through forests of coastal redwood trees, Monterey pines and cypress, we follow the golden light streaming through the branches. Every so once in a while we hit an open bluff of sage or ranchland with gorgeous seascape views. The mixture of sea mist, sage and cypress scent in the air is simply hedonism to the soul.
As we reach our destination, there is just enough light to brave a quick ab dive. I dragged our dive kit to shore—keeping the fishing license on hand to quickly bypass any officials. The waves were minimal, and the water temperatures just bearable enough to endure the cold water without wearing thick neoprene and iron weights, at least for an hour. Only on very rare occasions is bare flesh an option for this normally chilly coastline. With limited time to spare, I paddleboard my friend to a nearby rocky reef, where red abalone notoriously cling. He jumps into the brisk dark blue water rapidly moving him back and forth with the current. Divers must be quick to surprise the relaxed abalone, otherwise you face prying off giant mollusks super-glued to rocks with great force holding your breath. Within about five deep long dives searching for abs, he returns with a big red shell in his glove. I rejoice with delight, giving gratitude for the bounteous sea creature that endowed its life.
We return in time to join the celebration of our friends gathering around a spread of local food and wine on a bluff where everyone was camped. Sitting around a campfire, we sing along with the guitar, passing around bowls of salads and roasted vegetables. The fresh abalone meat, beaten down to tender succulence, was prepared in nearly ten different styles. Some breaded and fried, or sliced as sashimi dipped in ginger tamari, while others are baked over fire in savory sauces. All finger foods, all shared, all absolutely delightful and delicious. The flavor and nourishment, the relationships, the love … we celebrate the beauty and circle of life at our fingertips and all around us.
Bon appetit au joie de vie!
