Fiji rests on the boundary of Melanesia and Polynesia in the South Pacific. It is composed of 300 some islands to explore. It’s no coincidence it’s one of the most popular yachting and diving destination in the world.
Staying consistent with the voyage trend, my crew arrived in Fiji by chance. It was never on our agenda and entirely unexpected that I would end up in Fiji for my birthday. After two months out at sea, I was ready spend more time on land, socialize and explore. I was hoping to depart the sailboat in Samoa. But after battling trade winds and big swell going to Le Futuna & Wallis, where the rudder broke. It soon became clear heading East wasn’t going to happen. I had to suck it up and let go of Samoa, Nuie, Tonga and Minerva Reefs. So Fiji it was!
This was to be my second visit to Fiji. The first time I was here, I was still a teenager. It was dangerous to be in major ports post coups d’état. Fijians were protesting East Indians coming into power. East Indians were brought here by the British, when they were in power, to work on sugar cane plantations. Now the Indians represent nearly 50% of the population. There’s no shortage of excellent Indian food here!
Arriving on my birthday, August 29th, I wasn’t too excited about dealing with customs and provisioning. It was also a bit painful for me to bypass the entire Great Sea Reef on the North Coast the day before. Its supposedly the 3rd largest reef in the world. I have been dying to scuba dive for many months now.
Once we cleared customs in Latauka on the West Coast, we made way to the Yasawa islands, stopping at Vomo island along the way. Arriving quite late in the day on my birthday, Paul and I immediately swam to shore with our snorkel and fins. We were both blown away with how much marine life we saw in a short amount of time. Paul spotted a manta ray. I saw an octopus camouflaged with the coral reef. There was a moray eel, painted crayfish, white tip shark, and giant wrasse. Clearly this place was protected as a diving destination. So much life!
An Aussie couple on the beach let us know there was a restaurant and bar on the island. So we immediately went to ask for permission to dine there, given we had no idea what kind of resort it was. The bar was absolutely gorgeous and the staff gave us the okay. I was ecstatic! I couldn’t believe I stumbled into the most perfect place for my birthday.
Paul and I rushed back to shower and dress. I made sure to look ravishing. We arrived as dusk glow lit up the adjacent rock island as fruit bats flew out. We ordered drinks and held hands in the lounge chair. Pure romance! Almost too good to be true.
As it goes, the good times soon came to an end after the waiter asked for our room number. Next thing we knew the Pom manager told us leave…”no yachties allowed!” They weren’t interested in our money one bit. We literally had a whole fleet of workers escort us out. Talk about the ultimate birthday downer. I never felt quite so low class before?
Luckily I had bought a bottle of bubbly, which was chilled. We made a delicious bean salad then called it early. They next morning we tried to snorkel by the bat island. Didn’t last long after getting stung by hundreds of jellies in the water. That was it! We were done with this island, and off to Wayasewa and the Mamanucas. After one last snorkel and paddle around gorgeous uninhabited islands, we left for Vuda Marina.
It was in a bit of denial that I was departing the vessel there. I had hoped to go on just one dive with Paul in Astrolabe Reef before Orient returned to New Zealand. We never had a chance to do any shipwreck dive or reef dive. All of our dive gear remained unused.
I have since jumped ship to Daybreaker (another Beneteau). Skipper Scottie is a fellow virgo and American from Montana. He has introduced me to a very vibrant sailing community here in Fiji–a world I’ve never known. I’m content in my time to reflect and prepare for my next unknown chapter. It’s never easy to say goodby, but I have faith all will work out.
I am now at a sailing regatta in Musket Cove, Malolo. What a thrill to participate! I have been to a sporting party quite like this before.
I’m hoping to race tomorrow, then surf at “Swimming Pool” near the world renown Tavarua break. So exciting!
More to come…