Raglan, New Zealand
With a standby flight and open book, I have arrived to the windy shores of Aotearoa (Land of the Long White Cloud in Maori language), more recently known as New Zealand! Aotearoa sits on the bottom corner of the Polynesian Triangle in the Pacific Ocean—with Hawai’i to the North and Easter Island (Rapa Nui) to the East. I can hardly believe it’s been 20 years since my last visit! I am looking forward to rediscovering New Zealand and sharing it’s stories of adventure and inspiration.
My journey begins in Raglan—a quaint surf town on the West Coast of North Island. Raglan is known by surfers for its world famous left-hand break in Manu Bay. However, before surf was popular, Raglan was known for cultivating native New Zealand flax in its many marshes. Flax is a very important plant here in New Zealand. For centuries flax was used for its durable fibers—especially by native Maori people and eventually British Settlers. Flax made nets, building materials, even rain-proof clothing!
As a coastal California native and former Hawai’i resident, I feel right at home here in Raglan. The town sits alongside Lorenzen Bay, which resembles a smaller, far less populated version of the San Francisco Bay, where I have spent most my adult life. Minus the accents and mini-meat pies, there is a very familiar variety of bohemian cafes, surf shops, and ocean sports. As a long time outrigger canoe paddler, I of course noticed the ‘wakas’ (outriggers) along the shores right away. Similar to how early Polynesians arrived to Hawai’i, wakas were how early Maoris first arrived to New Zealand from Tahiti and other Polynesian island groups some 700 years ago.
I wish I could say I arrived to New Zealand by waka. I’m tough, but not that tough! I came to Raglan via United Airlines to visit my ole Kiwi pal, Red. Red (aka, Brent) is a builder, kiter, surfer, and identified by his distinctive red hair and freckles. Given Red’s ‘cool as‘ witty, laid back personality, he quickly became a good friend when I first moved to Sausalito, California many years ago. Red had migrated to Northern California with a bunch of his Kiwi buddies in the early 2000s, and was the only one to return to New Zealand.
Since I’ve known Red, all of his friends have had silly nicknames like Shady (Shane) and Triple K (Pete). I could be mistaken to assume this is a colonial trait to avoid proper British names like Grant or Alisdair. Upon my arrival, after all these years, I still find myself struggling to remember the real names of Red’s friends. I feel quite silly when I forget to call his roommate, Chicken—Karen, and his good pal, Carpie—Adam.
As I sit on Red’s porch in Raglan, overlooking Lorenzen Bay, I real in a deep breath of Manuka blossoms—where New Zealand’s famous Manuka honey comes from. A family of native fantails loudly chirp away in the Manuka trees all around me as I scope the tides. I’m planning to paddleboard into town with the current and perhaps scope out some remote beaches across the Bay. Meanwhile, I’m feeling torn that the surf may be up at Manu Bay or if I should trail run up to the summit of Karioi volcano while the skies are clear?! I’ve only been here in Raglan a week and half, and I’m realizing how much more time I need to fully experience this place, let alone, do enough travel justice for both North and South Islands!
But first, a decision must be made! Paddle, surf or volcano? Hmm. Let’s start with a flat white (creamy coffee) Solscape café. This allows for *alert* surf scoping and awesome views of the Tasman Sea.
Let the adventures begin!
Prints from Jwan Milek of Raglan’s world class surf breaks
On the way down to Ngarunui Beach, Raglan
Solscape Cafe, Raglan: Epic views of the Tasman Sea and Raglan Harbor Mouth
